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Whenever curating a roll of London’s finest restaurants, one might expect well-known Michelin-starred venues. Yet, nestled near the top among these food titans is a simple salonu located in a outlying corner of north London.

A Unexpected Accolade

This small Turkish spot, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the 4th finest restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent culinary publication. The accolade has made the family utterly astonished.

“I’m completely shocked,” remarks the proprietor, pointing to his parents’ dedication that resulted in their humble restaurant achieving such a high spot on a notable 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Modesty

The little venue, which used to be a simple cafe before its change into a sought-after food hotspot, has retained much of its former feel. It seats just over 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking display, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It is a small and stocky place,” notes the owner.

The Signature Dish: Tantuni

However, it is all down to the food, and this establishment more than excels. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a moist, juicy consistency.

The meat is then added into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. Once the savoury mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is rolled tightly inside.

It is typically enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a mighty burst of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A prominent food critic called this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is doused in less syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a richer, toastier and less sickly taste.

Surpassing the Stars

Remarkably, this modest restaurant has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the peak of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant full for under £25, comparable tasting menus at high-end establishments can start at significantly more than that amount.

A Creed of Heart

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is found well outside the city’s central zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. It is belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I don’t believe in that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is warmth, kindness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The philosophy is supported by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he was in a position of authority, he would “insist to have every chef in London visit this restaurant as a final lesson, to teach them the traps of overthinking, and to show what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Journey of Hard Work

In contrast to most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t apprentice at fancy restaurants. “I am very proud of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to find their footing, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its success is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum was really tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a life outside work but her friends would support her to help her. She had children and a house to care for as well. All of these roles made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

An Recognition for the Culture

The restaurant’s recognition is bound to echo beyond its own doors. “I believe a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the wider importance of this culinary achievement.